An introduction to paring leather and the English paring knife
Anyone with any knowledge of books and the collecting of books in particular will have realised the important part that leather has had in their binding. Therefore those members wishing to repair/ restore older books and to venture into new leather bindings need to know more about the material leather and its preparation.
The skills for leather binding are demanding and need a great deal of practice. It is with this need in mind that the workshop in January was brought about and it is indeed satisfying to have 14 members present to begin that practice, a summary of which follows as a reminder and encouragement to others who may wish to begin.
The English Paring Knife, designed specifically for the job (right or left handed) is made from high quality steel and should not be used for any other purpose. Once the essential shape and angle for the one-sided bevelled blade is achieved, it requires regular honing on a fine stone or carborundum paper and stropping on a fine leather pad in conjunction with a polishing medium for chrome or jewellery. It is important to keep the bevel as near flat as possible.
Hold the knife handle firmly and lay the bevelled face flat on the carborundum surface, by rocking gently up and down, the ‘flat' contact can be felt, then lower the knuckle of the little finger to the table surface and keep it there. The knife can be moved up and down the carborundum surface with the lowered finger keeping the knife at the same angle throughout. When satisfied the bevelled face is evenly flat, turn the blade over and laying the back flat on the carborundum, slide with a little chrome polish spread evenly on the leather. The bevelled edge will gradually become highly polished. Polish the flat side of the blade also.
The reasons for paring are fairly obvious. Jointing and foldovers need to be tapered to make a flat finish that meets the paper lining or endpapers. Overlappings need to be invisible. The shaping of spine raised bands is easier if the leather is a little thinner in the spine area. And the leather capping behind and over the head bands needs to be thinned to reduce the swelling of the spine.
Paring to my mind, is best done on a hard smooth surface. A piece of plate glass (smooth edged) or flat glazed floor tile are perfect. The English Paring knife is made to use in a sideways, slicing movement. One hand on the knife and the other holding the leather, face down to the glass, with one finger on the edge of the knife blade to press it down and push to the right.
The leather is pared in stages. The first cut removes the corner edge. The blade is held with the pointed tip on the glass, where it can slide unhindered, the blade almost flat to the leather. A major advantage being that the blade, under pressure by the left hand finger, also holds the leather flat and prevents the rippling effect of the leather and an uneven cut. The second cut extends the taper of the paring. Subsequent cuts thin the edge to almost zero and flatten the leather. The character of leather is most variable. Practice is the only way to really get to know it.
Do not try to pare a longer length at a time than is comfortable. A series of short cuts will achieve the full length just as well. Patience and practice (and a very sharp knife) will gradually enable a longer cut. Take care to clear away the parings, the smallest piece under the leather will result in a hole and spoil the pared edge.
When you come to do a half binding with those corner pieces that require two foldovers and all edges pared, it is easier to cut a length of leather to the width needed for the corner piece, pare the two length edges, then cut to the angles and finish pared foldover edges.
This article was written by D Millhouse, originally for publication in the Guild's magazine YAPP.